Ask someone to name their favourite food and I’ve discovered that they invariably “say cheese”. So I’m surprised that there are so few restaurants dedicated to the whiffy stuff. How many foods are suitable for starters, mains and dessert? Cheese hits up all three. Surely a shrine to this universally-loved treat can’t help but be a success.

And so we arrive at Androuet in Spitalfields market, where crystal chandeliers cast a glittering light on tall, silver mirrors that reflect towers of cheese. There’s everything from wizened Red Leicester to juicy Camembert and a considerable amount in between. All are arrayed in displays like museum pieces in a cabinet of curiosities. And indeed, some of them, like the crusty Reblochon, probably are.

Highlights of the menu range from fondue to tartiflette, both of which sound far more frivolous than the seriously substantial dishes that appeared on our table. With a Parmesan crisp here and a meltingly soft croquette there, by the time we came to the end there was no room for the one item that might be expected to conclude a meal – the classic cheese board.

So we spilled out into the Spitalfields night with a promise to return for a second bite.


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